SCHEDULED SESSIONS:
November 07 2023 - 5:40pm: Training Evaluation
MARKER AND SECONDARY REINFORCER: The “yes” acts as both a marker and secondary reinforcer. The “yes” marks the precise moment that a dog rehearses a specific behavior that is going to elicit the primary reinforcer, usually tasty treats. The dog now knows that when “yes” is communicated, the behavior they just performed is about to be rewarded. This association of the marker with a primary reinforcer also means it is a secondary reinforcer, which promises the delivery of the reward in the near future. You don’t have to use “yes”, you can choose any word you would like or you can use a clicker as well.
HIGH vs. LOW VALUE REWARDS: I recommend using lower value treats (kibble, packaged dog treats) in less distracting environments, such as inside the house. Save the higher value treats (meatballs, cheese, hotdogs) for outside where there are more distractions.
RATE OF REINFORCEMENT: The rate at which you reward your dog may need to be increased when there are more distractions or when a distraction is particularly stimulating. For example, when you just start practicing settling your dog may require a higher rate of reinforcement that may feel like you are constantly marking and rewarding back to back in order to maintain your dog’s settled position, as compared to later on in the training, which may require a lower rate of reinforcement once your dog is getting the hang of it. You can begin decreasing the rate of reinforcement with each training session and adapt as you notice your dog’s tolerance level.
JACKPOTS/FOOD SCATTERS: Jackpots and food scatters are similar in that they are both unexpected, large, and valuable rewards, and can contain the same amount of treats, but they are different in terms of the purpose they serve. A jackpot is used to provide multiple treats, to possibly increase the value of the reward, whereas a food scatter is intended to provide a break while the dog sniffs and searches for each piece of food.
TRAINING VOCABULARY:
11.07.23 - TRAINING FOR BLIZ
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HOMEWORK
Buy a treat pouch to carry with you on walks and use during training sessions
Focus working on crate training so you can create more distance without Bliz barking. Slow progress is good, we’re looking for no barks!
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ENRICHMENT
Incorporate these activities into Bliz’s regular routine for him, making any adjustments as needed.
Enrichment activities can include but are not limited to:
Kong, toppl, and/or lickimat for frozen foods such as a peanut butter/yogurt mix, peanut butter, wet food, etc.
Long chews like bully sticks, soup bones, stuffed marrow bones, pig ears NO RAWHIDES
Food scatter outside in the grass
Snuffle mat (can use a rolled up towel(s) as an alternative)
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TRAINING
LOOSE LEASH WALKING: always bring treat pouch with you on walks. Intermittently reinforce for any kind of eye contact or engagement with you while on the walk. Mark with a “yes!” or whatever your marker is and reward at whichever side you prefer Bliz to be walking on.
POTTY TRAINING: mark “Yes!” or whatever your marker is whenever Blizz starts going #2 and then reward after. A regular routine is also important so you could set one up with your family or I could help create one for you.
CRATE TRAINING: Practice creating distance when locking Bliz in the crate, we’re going for no barking so slow and steady progress is key.
SETTLING: with a mat/bed, practice settling in a down position. Keep initial sessions short but can do multiple in a day.
PLAY TRAINING: Anytime Bliz is playing with a toy or something he is supposed to be playing with, mark and reward.
DROP: practice cueing drop in multiple rooms around the house. Practice when he’s chewing something he shouldn’t be and ALWAYS reward with a treat.